Sunday, February 17, 2013

Tantanmen @ Bone Daddies, London


When I heard about a new "authentic" ramen house just opened in London, I got so excited I had to see it for myself. The city's food scene has certainly grown at staggering rate in recent years. I've been keeping a bucket list of restaurants to visit, but when it's ramen calling, I forget about the list and get on the next bus to London. 

Bone Daddies just opened three months ago, but London ramen fans are already torn between keeping allegiance to all-time favorite Tonkotsu and crowning Bone Daddies as the new ramen king in town. The difference between the two is slight and it all comes down to your personal preferences. Regardless if you have been to Tonkotsu, I would still recommend going to Bone Daddies for their fun sake list and ramen variety.

I went there today with my friend S. We came in to an empty restaurant at noon and within less than half an hour the whole restaurant was jam packed. For starters, we got their signature soft shell crab with punchy ginger and green chili sauce and my god, they sure did a great job with that crab.

It was the most succulent soft shell crab I've had in my life. The outer shell was crispy, but the inside was moist and flavorful, which almost never happens with the typical deep fried soft shell crab.

Bone Daddies does a variety of ramen with both chicken bone broth and pork bone broth. To try both, S ordered the tantanmen (ramen in spicy chicken bone broth) and and I the tonkotsu (ramen in 20 hour long-simmered pork bone broth). The tonkotsu was wonderfully intense and smoky with a hint of garlic oil. Noodles firm, thin and crispy. But the chashu was austere and nondescript, and will invariably disappoint those who are expecting their tastebuds to be bombarded with fireworks of marbled animal fat.

I've always had preference for tonkotsu broth but I must say the tantanmen was much more remarkable than the tonkotsu. Indeed, Bone Daddies is known for its tantanmen. I suppose it just never occurred to me tantanmen could be that good.

The tantanmen was unapologetically spicy and sesame-rich. When you sip the broth, you first taste the peanut in the soup, but it ends with heat at the back of your throat. The minced pork was juicy and wholesome. A dash of lime ultimately balanced the palate and alluded to the composition of Thai food.

Next time you're out in Soho for a boozy night, you know where to stop by for your ramen.

Bone Daddies
31 Peter Street,
London, W1F 0AR
+4420 7287 8581
bonedaddiesramen.com

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